Maui Day 5: Lahaina + Kapalua Tide Pools

By Saturday we had checked most things off our “must do” list so we were feeling pretty chill. My son and I started the day trying to track down some turtles with our friend and their 1yo. We found a trio on a nearby beach, just snoozing.

The top of the beach was covered in these vines with beautiful purple flowers. I love the flora of Hawaii.

Later, our friend wanted to go to the Lahaina Yacht club because he’s a member of a Yacht club at home and there is reciprocal admittance.

When he called to make the reservation he was told there would be an event happening, but it wouldn’t be a problem. When we got there we realized, after we’d ordered drinks, that the event was a memorial service, and they had placed us at the table directly in front of the microphone, so everyone who was remembering the deceased had to look past us to see the speakers. It was… incredibly awkward.

We quickly finished our drinks and paid, but we couldn’t find anywhere else to eat because it was between lunch and dinner service. Our friends also had to get back to put their 1yo to bed early. So we split up for the rest of the afternoon.

My family walked around a bit in Lahaina, which is a very touristy town. We saw this incredible banyan tree (it’s supposedly the largest in the world) and then decided to head north to eat.

The biggest banyan tree

After eating, we kept driving north to the Kapalua tide pools. We had to drive into a hotel complex and wait for a spot in a small public lot, but eventually we arrived at what felt like the end of the earth.

There wasn’t much actually in the tide pools, but the lava rock formations were amazing.

It took us a while to drive all the way down the north western coast, but we arrived at home in time for this amazing sunset.

I always feel ready to go home on the penultimate day, and then become sad about leaving on the final day. It’s a pattern I’ve noticed this summer, and I guess it makes sense.

Last Days of Summer

We head to the airport in one hour. I’m writing this on the hammock, listening to the waves.

I still can’t really believe we got to come, and that no one tested positive for COVID. I’m so glad we didn’t stay home after the exposure. No one else from the cabin, not even the one person who still hasn’t had COVID, ever tested positive.

We get home pretty late tonight (we lose three hours) and then we spend tomorrow getting the kids ready for their first day of school on Wednesday. I checked my work email last night and my first official day is Thursday.

I need to unpack and put all the luggage away. I need to clean up my house, which is officially a pit. I need to get my head in the game.

These are the last two days of summer. I can think of a better way to end our summer than this trip, so I really can’t complain.

I hope you’re enjoying, or enjoyed, your last days of summer too.

Goodbye Maui!

Maui Day 4: Snorkeling at Molokini Crater and Coral Gardens

On Friday, my daughter and I got up early to be at the harbor for our snorkeling tour. I reserved for us on Wednesday, and was very excited for the chance to snorkel in spots only available by boat.

The first destination was Molokini Crater, a half moon shaped piece of land off the coast of Maui. It’s an incredible spot to snorkel (and scuba dive) and we were so excited that the winds had died down enough for our boat to go.

Molokini Crater

Only my daughter and I went on snorkeling tour, because it was expensive ($450 for the two of us) and because my son does not like snorkeling. My husband was kind enough to stay back with him while my daughter and I headed out.

When we arrived at Molokini Crater we could immediately see the coral below. The visibility was something like 100ft and everything in the water looked stunning.

My GoPro shots really don’t do it justice, because it was deep enough that you start to loose colors like red and yellow. So all the shots look really blue, but being there it looked like a rainbow. It was truly some of the best snorkeling I’ve ever done.

My daughter, absolutely rocking it
This starfish was green and purple!
Parrot fish really hate the paparazzi
You could see so far, it was incredible

We snorkeled at Molokini Crater for about an hour, which was perfect timing because the water was cold (all around the crater the water is 300ft deep). Then we headed back, this time against the wind, to Maui.

The second place we anchored was called Coral Gardens. I was a little disappointed because the trip was billed as “Molokini Crater and Turtle Town,” and I was desperate to see a sea turtle swimming, but I was so blown away by Molokini Crater that I couldn’t really be upset.

Then we got in the water at Coral Gardens and it was beautiful. And then someone yelled that they saw a turtle.

It was a little guy. And he was just chilling. He swam into a little cove, floating around.

Then he swam out of the cove, right under us!

That is my daughter in the pink shirt

Then he swam into deeper water, and I got to swim right next to him (keeping 10 feet away of course).

We followed him around for about half an hour, and it was the most amazing experience. For a while he hung out on a coral reef, just munching. He looked like he had his head in a giant thing of popcorn (again it was deeper so color was lost in the shot).

Finally he swam away. I was truly the happiest panda.

And with that I had experienced everything I had hoped to and more on my trip. I felt incredibly content. And so, so lucky to have shared it all with my daughter. It was a really great day.

In the afternoon we hung out with our friends back at the property. Later we went to a distillery and drank some cocktails. The view was breathtaking.

Finally, the kids played on the beach at home, while I read in the hammock. Honestly this might have happen after the swimming pool, I can’t really remember. Time is a flat circle. Especially in Hawaii.

Our weekend (Days 5 and 6) has been much more chill. I’ll probably write about them when I get home. Our friends leave tomorrow (Sunday) morning very early so we’ll be alone in the property the last day. This was not originally the plan, but we’ll make the best of it. Then we leave early on Monday. I can’t believe summer is over. I can’t believe all we’ve done and seen.

Maui Day 3: Waterfall Day!

On Thursday we woke up early to make it to the Twin Falls parking lot before it filled up. As you may remember, swimming in a waterfall (or a body of fresh water) was one of my main goals on this trip, so when I learned about Twin Falls I was immediately intrigued. Especially when I saw pictures.

The only problem was that the parking lot was always full. One of the locals said that you had to get there before 8am to get a spot.

So Thursday morning we got up at 7am to head to Twin Falls. We for there right before 8am and secured a spot no problem. We walked a little bit and got to the lower falls, which were not what we were looking for, but were still cool.

About 20 minutes of walking later, we arrived at Twin Falls. And they were incredible.

The water was pretty chilly. And since it was early the day wasn’t hot yet. But we all got in, because how can you not swim in something like that?

We swam for about an hour, until the kids got cold. We also took a ton of photos and videos. It was a really amazing experience.

On the way home we stopped to see if any turtles were left on that beach my son and I visited the day before. And there were!

We even got to watch one pull itself onto the sand (I’d try to upload the video but I know it won’t work. My WordPress App can barely handle photos.)

We headed home for some down time and lunch. Then I took the kids for an encore of Ululani’s Shaves Ice, which is amazing.

In the afternoon we surprised the kids with a trip to a private pool that truly has to be seen to be believed. It belongs to the sister of the man who owns the property we’re staying on. It’s the most amazing pool I’ve ever seen and the kids were appropriately blown away.

Look at this shit

The middle waterfall is a platform to jump from. The pool below is 12 feet deep! The waterfall on the right is the mouth of a water slide, and the one to the left covers the opening of a swim up bar cave. It’s crazy.

My kids jumped off that a million times
We also went down the slide a bunch

There is also a hot tub to the left of the swim up bar. And a basketball hoop over the water in the shallow end.

The family was away but they trust our friend to use the pool because he’s been such an amazing guest. Spending the afternoon there was a real treat.

We went home for dinner and more down time, before going to bed early because my daughter and I had big plans for Friday. Hopefully more on that soon!

{After the whole family tested negative on Thursday morning, our hosts let us come into the big house. My daughter and I are still testing every day and are still coming up negative.}

Maui Day 2: Road to Hana + Charley Young Beach

We felt a little beached out after our marathon first day, so we decided on our second day to brave the road to Hana (or at least part of it).

But first my son and I hit up a nearby beach to see some see turtles. The two things I really want to do on this trip are swim with sea turtles (in their general vicinity) and swim in a waterfall. We didn’t see any sea turtles on our first day snorkeling, but it was exciting to see them on the beach!

The first sea turtle of our trip!

The road to Hana is long and windy and it takes a while to actually arrive in Hana (2.5 hours!) We were told it might not actually be worth going all the way there, so we decided to just go half way. We stopped at a bay that locals love, and then hit up a hiking trail a friend recommended.

Hike to the bay
The bay
I love these vines!

There were so many incredible views on the road – we pulled over a few times just to take photos.

On the way back home, we stopped for some amazing BBQ on the side of the road. The food here is so good.

At home we realized our friends had gone to a spot that was too far for our liking (after all that driving earlier), so we tried to think of something else to do. I have to admit, the adults just wanted to stay on the property and chill out (we were exhausted from all the driving), but we knew our son couldn’t handle that much down time. Finally, we found a beach that was only 30 minutes away, and we committed to that.

And Charley Young Beach ended up being just what we needed. The wind was wicked (locals say the last two days have been windier than anything they’ve seen in years – like tropical storm windy) but we had a ton of fun playing in the waves and exploring the lava rock formations. I even did some body boarding!

Before we left I wrote a thank you note in the sand, so I could take a picture and our friend could send it to his friend whose property we’re staying on. But right after I took the shot the waves came and washed away everything but the thank you. It felt really perfect, because I’m so grateful for this trip, so I took another picture.

Maui Day 1: “The Dumps” + Wailea

The very first thing I wanted to do in Maui was snorkel! I absolutely love being in the ocean, and I love seeing ocean life whenever I can.

So on our first morning we hit up a spot the locals call “the Dumps.”

The Dumps is a lava rock beach on the southern tip of the island. And it is teeming with amazing ocean life. I brought my GoPro and caught some of what we saw while we snorkeled.

The wind really picked up as it got later – I even started to get motion sick – so we left around lunch. We got some amazing fish tacos on the way out, and then headed for Wailea.

Wailea is a very chill beach. It was also very hot. We hung out for a bit, letting the kids play in the water, but we didn’t last long.

My daughter could play in the waves all day

Finally we stopped at the Maui Brewing company on the way home. The kids are an early dinner and we had some drinks and appetizers. It was a super chill spot that we all liked a lot.

That evening we hung out on the property where we are staying. It’s so incredibly beautiful here. I really can’t believe our luck. (Being here at all, and the fact that we’re still testing negative.)

Paradise

We made it. The flight was fine. We were sandwiched between four loud families with small kids, but we’ve been flying so much this summer we hardly noticed. The 5.5 hours passed rather quickly.

And then we arrived here.

Drink our friend had ready when we arrived

This place is truly paradise. And it’s way out of our league. I’m so glad we were able to come, despite the uncertainty of our future COVID status. I guess that is always a looming issue, and it seems only fair that we really have to deal with it on our last trip.

And if we do get COVID, I can’t think of a better place to isolate.

This morning I tested negative again. My daughter isn’t up yet to test. None of the other people who were with us at the KOA have tested positive yet. Fingers crossed we all managed to miss it some how.

In the meantime I’m typing this post on my phone in this hammock. So life is pretty damn good.

#noregrets

Spoke too soon

Last night (after I wrote and scheduled the previous post), my friend called to tell me she tested positive for COVID. She has been with us at the KOA for the full week, and had tested negative before she left.

That means she got it on a quick shopping trip during the week. Or she had it before she got there, but took a while to show symptoms (in her case a bad headache that showed up on Saturday and wouldn’t go away on Sunday).

We obviously spent a lot of time with her this week, including 4 hours in the car on Saturday and an hour in the car on Sunday (she drove my daughter and I home). We were obviously around her when she was contagious.

This, of course, caused us to rethink our travel plans. We’re staying with people in Maui so we had to let them know and see what they were comfortable with. They said we could still come, but we’d be sleeping in a smaller house on the property, not in the big house. I ran to Costco this morning and bought 20 extra tests to bring – my daughter and I will be testing every morning at least, and of course we’ll test more if anyone gets symptoms.

And of course we run the risk of being stuck in Hawaii longer than expected, needing to find additional lodging and change our flights.

It was hard to figure out what to do, but ultimately we decided we be more disappointed to stay home and never test positive than to go and test positive. How knows if that will actually be the case…

Let’s just hope our antibodies are still working. They’ve certainly gotten a workout with all our traveling so far.

Off we go again!

Today we leave on our final trip of the summer. This is our last minute trip to Maui, which we made because we were invited to spend a week with friends in a large house on the beach. The flights were relatively cheap (and I had a $300 credit from my Covid-cancelled Portland trip), and all we had to pay toward the lodging was a quarter of the $2K cleaning fee. It’s an incredible opportunity to visit a place that normally would be very much outside our price range, and we felt we couldn’t pass it up.

So today we fly to Maui (barring any transportation complications). After flying to London, a 5.5 hour straight shot feels very manageable.

Unpacking from the KOA trip and repacking for a beach vacation in 10 hours felt a little less manageable yesterday, but I made it happen.

This has been a really nuts summer for us, travel wise. I was doing some math in my head at the KOA and I calculated that there were 68 nights in my summer break, and I spent 34 of them sleeping somewhere other than my bed, which is weirdly exactly half of the nights. So I’ve spent half of my summer traveling – St. Louis, the rafting trip, London, the KOA and Maui. That is crazy.

And I don’t anticipate it will ever happen again. While I’m incredibly thankful for all that trips we’ve taken – and the fact that Covid did not derail any of them (yet! All appendages crossed!!!) – it was a bit much for little old me. I just don’t have it in me to unpack and pack over and over again all summer long, or to sleep in so many different beds.

And the only way we could afford all this was a combination of special circumstances (my parents paid for the AirBnB in London and our accommodations in Maui are basically free) and a very large tax refund that had something to do with us no longer being landlords. We certainly don’t usually have the money to fly four of us across the Atlantic (our London flights cost SO MUCH), let alone fly us to Hawaii after doing so (even if the flights are cheaper than expected).

Luck also played a roll. The fact that we left late on Monday for London meant I could go to the rafting trip, even though I got back late Sunday night. The fact that our kids’ school district started on a Wednesday (for the first time in the seven years they’ve attended), and mine started a week later than usual, meant we could fit in Maui during literally the last week of the break. We come back Monday night and our kids start school Wednesday morning. I have my first staff day on Thursday or Friday (I’ll be at work on Thursday either way).

The KOA trip was really fun. It was intense, but highly enjoyable. After so much time with family, my son, daughter and I all appreciated spending some time with friends. The weather was lovely (warm enough to swim in the cold pool, but cool enough at night to sleep without air conditioning), and the company was lovelier. It helps that the KOA is only an hour from our side of the city, which made bringing my son home halfway, and then returning with a friend, fairly easy. It was also our second year going, so we had a much better idea of what to bring and how to execute the trip.

I’ve spend almost no time thinking about work this summer. And I’m going to try to keep it out of my mind until we get back. Last summer I spent two weeks packing my room in June and another week and a half unpacking it in August, so I very much appreciate the extended break I’m getting this year. I do think I’ll be ready to go back in mid-August. I know I’m ready for my kid to be back on their regular schedules.

I’ll try to post a bit in Maui. Thanks for sticking with me this summer!

Time is a flat circle

We’re at the KOA. It feels strangely like we never left.

Being here last year was our attempt at normalcy. Our kids had been in school for 10 days the whole school year before, but we were promised a return to the classroom in the fall. The last of us was finally eligible for vaccination. The future felt full of possibility, the possibility of normalcy. Of things returning to what they had been.

Or maybe I just want to remember that it felt like that last year. Maybe it didn’t feel like that at all. Time is hard to hold on to. The years melt together. The threads holding together the narrative are brittle and break easily.

The ways I felt and when I felt them exist in liminal spaces that I can’t really grasp from here.

Time is a flat circle*. I don’t really know what that means but I’ve thought of it a lot these past years, because for me it means that time doesn’t always makes sense in the ways I want it to. And that’s okay.

Right now I’m in a place that seems to exist, for me, in both this year and the last one. And it’s a weird place to be, but not necessarily a bad one.

Also floaties.

*I know this phrase from the first season of True Detective but I believe it’s from Nietzsche originally.